Great Cities of Europe

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<F16>FLORENCE</F> <L7><F14>Basic Information</F> Documents Required: United States citizens need a passport for visits not exceeding three months. American Consulate: 28 Lugarno Vespucci; 55/ 239-8276. Currency: The monetary unit is the lira (L or Lit). Banks: Banks are open Monday to Friday 8:30A.M.-1:30P.M. and 3-4P.M., and closed on weekends and national holidays. You'll need your passport when cashing travelers checks. Customs: Visitors may export up to one million lire worth of goods (about $650). The export of antiques and modern art objects is restricted; special permits are available from the Export Department of the Italian Ministry of Education (Ministero Beniculturalie Ambientali, 27 Via Del Collegio Romano, Rome; 011-39/ 6-6723). Climate: Daytime temperatures range from a brisk average of 42 degrees in December, January, and February to a humid 77 degrees in late July and August. It rains throughout the year, but rarely for prolonged periods in summer. January is the wettest month. Tipping: When service is not included on the bill, leave 15 percent. If service is included, an additional five percent is usually added. Tourist Information: Italian Government Travel Office, 630 Fifth Ave., Suite 1565, New York, NY 10111; 212/245-4822. The main tourist office in Florence is at Via Manzoni 16; 55/ 247-814. Airports: For European and domestic flights, the main airport is Pisa. Peretola, which is only 10 minutes from Florence, accommodates only short-haul European flights. Passengers outside Europe will have to transfer or fly direct to Milan or Rome. Hourly trains take two hours from Rome to Florence. Getting Around: By bus: City and inter-city buses are inexpensive and efficient. A biglietto semplice (one-way ticket) or biglietto multiplo (book of 11 tickets) must be purchased in advance from bars or tobacconists. Buses accepting exact change only are labeled with a hand holding a coin. By rail: Florence Central station at Santa Maria Novella is one of the busiest in central Italy. Trains are classified as follows: Inter-City (IC): For major Italian cities. Pendolino: First-class-only, and faster than ICs. Euro City: For major Italian cities and Europe. Espresso: Long-distance express to major stations; first - and second-class. Diretto: Most stations; both classes. Locale: Second-class only, stopping at all stations. By taxi: You'll be lucky to find one anywhere, although there are taxi stands in many of the main squares. Taxis are expensive, so Florentines don't tip unless the driver is particularly helpful. By car: Major international car rental companies have branches at the airports. By foot: Florence is small enough to be seen on foot, and has traffic-free zones (zone pedonale) in parts of the city center. Postal and Telephone Service: Mailboxes are red and labeled Poste or Lettere. To call Florence from the United States, dial 011-39, the city code (Florence is 55), and the local number. Public Holidays: January 1, Easter Monday, Liberation Day (April 25), Labor Day (May 1), Assumption of the Virgin (August 15), All Saints Day (November 1), Conception of the Virgin Mary (December 8), December 25 and 26. Feast days in honor of local patron saints are not official public holidays, but many shops close in Florence on the Feast of St. John the Baptist (June 24). Electric Current: Sockets are the standard European two- prong type, and carry 220V. <F14>Time Line</F> Beginnings of the City 400 b.c. Tuscany is the center of Etruscan civilization. 200 b.c. Rome absorbs Etruscan civilizations. 570 a.d. Tuscany is occupied by the Lombards, a Germanic people. Middle Ages 1096-1099 First crusade opens trade with eastern markets. 1125 Florence takes Fiesole, the city's first conquest in Tuscany. 1215 Rivalry between supporters of the Papacy and supporters of the Holy Roman Emperor. 1338 Florence's population is 90,000. 1348 Black Death kills nearly half the population of Tuscany. Early Renaissance 1434 The Medici become the leading family of Florence. 1469 Lorenzo de Medici takes charge of the city. 1478 Pazzi Conspiracy: an attempt on the life of Lorenzo, who escapes, although his brother, Giuliano, is stabbed to death. 1492 Death of Lorenzo. 1494 Savonarola gains following by urging the rejection of all worldly possessions. He is burnt at the stake in 1498. High Renaissance 1500 -1525 Two Medici Popes: Giovanni as Leo X and Giulio as Clement VII. 1555 -1559 Florentine conquest of Siena and its territories. 1610 Galileo discovers the moons of Jupiter. Occupation and Unification 1799-1814 Napoleonic occupation of Tuscany. 1860 Tuscany becomes part of a united Italy. Today 1944 German bombs destroy Ponte Santa Trinita and Borgo San Jacopo. 1946 Republic of Italy is formed. 1966 Florence suffers severe flood. 1986 European Community names Florence a 'European Cultural Metropolis. ' </L7> <L6><F14>Hotels</F> Excelsior $$$ 3 Piazza Ognissanti 55/ 264-201 The old-guard luxurious locale. Monna Lisa $$$ 27 Borgo Pinti 55/ 24 79 751 A reconfigured Renaissance palace, the Neri, built in the 14th century. Annalena $$ 34 Via Romana 55/ 22 24 02 A comfortable pensione on the first floor of a 15th-century palace. Beacci Tornabuoni $$ 3 Via Tornabuoni 55/ 26 83 77 Breakfast on the roof-top terrace makes it exceptional. Torre di Bellosguardo $$ 2 Via Roti Michelozzi 55/ 22 98 145 Set in olive groves with spectacular views of Florence. Residenza $ 8 Via Tornabuoni 55/ 28 41 97 No frills. Family apartments available. <F14>Restaurants</F> Enoteca Pinchiorri $$$ 87 Via Ghibellina 55/ 24-2777 One the most famous in Europe for both its food and wine cellar. Cibreo $$ 118 Via de' Macci 55/ 23 41 100 Quintessential Tuscan food. Cammillo $$ 57 Borgo S. Jacopo 55/ 21 24 27 Family-run, with wine and oil from the owner's farm. Latini $$ 6 Via Palchetti (behind Palazzo Rucellai) 55/ 21 09 16 Appealingly noisy and crowded with an open kitchen and communal tables. La Loggia $ 1 Piazzale Michelangelo 55/ 23 42 832 Great views and authentic Tuscan creations. Mossacce $ 55 Via del Proconsolo (between the Duomo and Bargello) 55/ 29 43 61 Cheerful and a good value. </L6> <L1><F14>Sites</F> Remember that churches are not museums, so be sensitive when visiting one. Women should wear a long skirt or trousers, and shoulders should be covered. Brancacci Chapel Piazza del Carmine Masaccio's 15th-century frescoes in the left transept of the Carmelite church are among the most influential works of Western painting. Duomo The cathedral (Santa Maria del Fiore), clad in white and green marble, is dominated by Brunelleschi's dome. Dome construction was begun in 1436 and completed in 1461. Those who can manage the more than 400 steps to the top of dome will be rewarded with a panoramic view. Baptistry The Baptistry is the oldest building in Florence, built during the 6th century. Ghiberti's bronze doors are an evolutionary moment in sculpture from the Gothic to the Renaissance. The original reliefs have been moved to the Cathedral Museum and replaced by reproductions. Campanile Built between 1334 -1359, according to Giotto's design. Try to make the climb. Medici Riccardi Palace Via Cavour 55/ 217-601 Ground-floor windows were designed by Michelangelo. The palace includes the Medici Chapel and Benozzo Gozzoli's Journey of the Magi frescoes. Pitti Palace Piazza Pitti An exquisite collection of paintings from the 16th century, including works by Raphael and Titian. The Boboli Gardens, laid out in 1549, are behind the Pitti. Santa Croce Piazza Santa Croce Built in the early 15th century by Brunelleschi. During the period of Savonarola, heretics were burned in the square. Santa Maria Novella Piazza Santa Maria Novella 55/ 210-113 Boccaccio described the protagonists of the Decameron here. Masaccio's Trinity occupies a portion of the left wall of the nave. San Minialto Al Monte off Piazzale Michelangelo 55/ 234-2731 The oldest church in Florence, built in the late 11th century. After the expulsion of the Medici in 1527, the hill was fortified by Michelangelo and used as a key defense post against the army of Charles V. Piazzale Michelangelo On the hills of the Oltrarno, with unparalleled views of Florence. Ponte Vecchio The bridge dates from 1345. Jewelers have occupied it since 1593, and it was the only bridge spared by the Germans in their August 1944 bombing campaign. </L1> <L2><F14>Museums and Culture</F> San Marco, Fra Angelico Museum Piazza San Marco 55/ 21 07 41 The convent and cloisters have been adorned with frescoes by Fra Angelico. Michelangelo Museum (Casa Buonarroti) 70 Via Ghibellina 55/ 24 17 52 Although Michelangelo never lived here, the museum retains the Madonna della Scala, The artist's earliest known work, and the Battle of the Centaurs, completed while he apprenticed under the Medicis. Cathedral Museum 9 Piazza Duomo The original works from the Duomo, baptistry, and campanile, including Michelangelo's Pietα. Accademia (Galleria dell'Accademia) 60 Via Ricasoli 55/ 21 43 75 In 1563, 70 leading Florentine artists founded the first academy of art in Europe. Michelangelo's David and his unfinished Slaves are main draws. Uffizi 6 Piazzale degli Uffizi 55/ 21 83 41 The story of the Renaissance is told through masterpieces. Giotto, Duccio, Masaccio, Botticelli, Michelangelo, Titian, and others. Bargello (Museo Nazionale) 4 Via del Proconsolo 55/ 21 08 01 Many of Florence's sculptural treasures, including Donatello's and Verrocchio's Davids and Michelangelo's first large free-standing sculpture, Bacchus.<F14></F> </L2> <L5><F14>Shopping</F> Shops are usually open 9A.M.-1P.M., and 3:30 P.M.-7P.M., Monday to Saturday. Antiques Around Via dei Fossi and Via Maggio, Borgognissanti, Borgo San Jacopo, and Via Santo Spirito. Casa d'Aste Pitti 15 Via Maggio 55/ 28 71 38 Auctions are held in spring and fall. Artisans and Restorations Workshops are found on back streets of the Oltrarno. Clothes Most of the best-known Italian designers, such as Luisa and Gucci, have outlets on and off the Via Tornabuoni. Food Food markets are concentrated at Sant'Ambrogio and San Lorenzo. Jewelry Casa dell'Orafo 2 Vicolo Marzio (no phone) Settepassi 25 Via Tornabuoni 55/ 21 55 06 Leather One of Florence's main exports. Peruzzi Borgo dei Greci 55/ 26 30 39 Wine Italy's best are Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Chianti, and the red wine of Carmignano. </L5> <L3><F14>Night Spots</F> Teatro dell'Oriuolo Via dell'Oriuolo Native productions, if your Italian is good. Teatro alla Pergola 12 Via della Pergola 55/ 247-9651 Year-round performances. Sala Bianca Palazzo Pitti Classical music. Sala del Conservatorio di Musica 2 Piazza Belle Arti Chamber orchestras and smaller performances. In the summer, ballet performances take place at Giardino di Boboli and in the Palazzo Pitti. </L3> <L4><F14>Excursions</F> Arezzo 50 miles southeast of Florence Arezzo was one of the wealthiest cities of the Etruscans, and it is famous for Piero della Francesca's frescoes in the church of San Francesco. Castellina in Chianti 31 miles south of Florence One of the original centers of the Chianti Classico wine-growing zone. Fiesole 5 miles northeast of Florence The 14th-century church of San Francesco is a rigorous five-minute climb from the west end of Piazza Mino. Once there, you're presented with a magnificent view of Florence and the Arno valley. Lucca 46 miles west of Florence Lucca was the only Tuscan city-state to resist Florentine imperialism. The town's narrow medieval streets, palaces, tower houses, and Romanesque churches are still encircled by 16th-century walls. Pisa 56 miles west of Florence Pisa enjoyed a vibrant maritime economy during the 12th-century. Galileo dropped three metal balls of different masses from Pisa's leaning tower to disprove Aristotle's theories about the acceleration of falling bodies. San Gimignano 34 miles southwest of Florence San Gimignano is the best-preserved medieval town in Tuscany. Thirteen of its original 70 towers, built for defense and as status symbols, survive. Height meant prestige for medieval Tuscan nobility. Siena 42 miles south of Florence The Campo is the central square of Siena, and one of the most magnificent public spaces in Europe. The cathedral of Santa Maria dell'Assunta was constructed over a period of nearly two centuries. The Cathedral Museum includes sculptures, paintings, and reliquaries from the Duomo and other Sienese churches, including Duccio's Maesta. </L4> <L8><F14>Sunshine Guide to Florence, Italy</F> Seasons: Florence has the typical three-season Mediterranean year. Spring (March through mid-May) brings an increase in the intensity of the sunshine and days that are longer than the nights. The landscape is alive with blossoms. Summer (mid-May through the first heavy rains of September) is the season of dry, long, hot, and sunny days. Winter (mid-September through February) is the wettest time of year, with short cloudy days and frequent frosts. Days are not all that cold, however, and crop growth continues. Because of this and the fact that most of the trees are evergreen, there is no "fall" as such. Sunniest Months: July and August. This is when you can expect to get the sunniest weather of the year. In general, 64% of the year's daylight hours will be sunny--from a high of 93% in August, to a low of 47% in December. For the most part, the sunniest time of day will be from mid-morning to early afternoon. Early mornings are often misty or foggy, and late afternoon tends to be cloudy during the summer months. Warmest Months: July and August--no contest. These months are hot to very hot, and the city crowds just make them seem hotter. The hottest temperature of the year will be around 99 degrees, and will probably occur in August. At this time of year, the temperatures do not fall quickly nor very much after the sun sets. From late May through the middle of September, most nights will be hot enough that you will sleep better with some sort of room- cooling. Coolest Months: January and February. At this time of year, you can expect frosty mornings on more than a quarter of the days. Afternoons warm up quickly, however, and most years will not see a day when the temperature fails to rise above freezing at some time. The coldest temperature of the year will be around 20 degrees, and will probably occur in January at a time when the rest of Europe is in the deep-freeze. Snow flurries will occur on three or four days during the winter, but snow on the ground is rare and does not last. Driest Months: July and August, again. Actually, the entire year is dry by northern European standards. Some 69% of the year's days will get no measurable precipitation; that is, they will get less than a hundredth of an inch. July will have 85% such days, whereas April and October will get only 60%. A "dry day" in the table, however, is one with less than a tenth of an inch--a more useful measure. It takes at least that much to wet the ground under the trees. Most of the rain comes from the same series of frontal storms that sweep from west to east across the Mediterranean Basin and southern Europe. Weather changes usually come at three-to-five-day intervals--except during the summer. In summer the changes are much less frequent, and the weather is often stable for a week or more at a time. Things To Know: Winter doesn't have the same meaning in Florence as in northern Europe. Since most of the trees are evergreen (including the olive and citrus) there is no general fall of leaves. Some annuals will die back, but others (including wheat and barley) continue to grow and flourish, to be harvested in the spring or early summer. Basically, winter is the season of short, cloudy days and abundant rain. The cold and snow of northern Europe are largely absent here. Weather Copyright 1995 by Patrick J. Tyson, Box 492787, Redding CA 96049. All rights reserved. </L8>